How to make a wall of drywall?

When building your house,the need to erect new partitions and internal walls in the apartment. This can be as a full-scale replanning of housing, and the desire to break down the existing premises into parts and form rooms in a new building, which today, as a rule, are carried out by a single space.

For the construction of internal partitions use gypsum board and metal profiles. This material is so convenient and easy to handle that it is possible to understand how to make a wall made of drywall with your own hands, even without assistance. However, during the formation of walls from the GKL, there are many important nuances that must be taken into account in the process of work. Only in this way can you get a reliable design that can last a long time.

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Main characteristics of drywall

Drywall has a number of undeniable advantages compared to other variants of wall finishing in different rooms. Here are some of the most significant of them:

• Acceptable price.
• Easy to install with your own hands.
• Fire resistance and moisture resistance.
• Environmental safety.
• Possibility of shaping.
• Easy installation of sound and noise insulation, lighting.
• Combination with other materials.

From what material is it better to make a wall of gypsum board with your own hands? To do this, you can use several types of sheets from the manufacturer Knauf:

• Standard( GKL) for dry rooms.
• Waterproof( GKLV), almost universal, which is suitable for rooms with any humidity.
• Fire-resistant( GKLO) for rooms with an increased risk of fire.
• A sheet that combines two advantages - moisture resistance and fire resistance( GKLVO).

Important! For ordinary rooms of city apartments( except for a bathroom) it is better to use usual sheets with which help it is possible to make practically any figured designs.

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Materials for the

work Before you can build a drywall wall, you first need to determine what we need to build a wall of materials and what tools it will work.

In order to ensure the strength and correct configuration of the wall, you must first build a frame. It is made of a metal profile, which is specially developed for drywall from a number of auxiliary devices for its installation.

Profiles - types, features

Basically, a profile of two basic dimensions is used:

• D - for manufacturing a plane on which plasterboard( smaller) will be fastened.
• W - to form a common wall frame( larger).

Important! In addition, for each dimension, profile variants are provided for both the reference( C) and the guide( U):

• . The guide variant is a simpler view of the U-shaped profile with smooth walls, the support profile is inserted into it.
• In addition, in the U-shaped form, the support profile has a special ribbing, which is made by pressing to obtain greater rigidity for bending.

As a result:

1. CD - the size of 60x27 mm is the main supporting element of the frame.
2. UD - size 28x27 mm is a guide for the profile of CD.
3. CW - size 50x50, 50x75, 50x100 mm is a rack-mount profile for forming the frame of the wall.
4. UW - size 50x40, 75x40, 100x40 mm is a guide for the profile CW.
5. UA - is a variant of the CW profile, but reinforced with a thicker wall.

Important! In order to make a wall made of gypsum board with a width of 50, 75, 100 mm, only CW and UW profiles can be used. For the implementation of wider walls with communication laying, the profile CD and UD is used, while two parallel guides are installed on each side of the wall at the right distance.

Fasteners:

• A straight suspension and a universal connector( crab) will be required to attach the profile to the frame. Without the latter, you can manage.
• Twist the elements by self-tapping blocks with a tip "drill", as well as screws for fixing gypsum cardboard on metal with a countersunk head and a piercing tip( 3,5x35 mm).
• To fasten the whole frame to the walls you will need dowels made of plastic with impact screws.

Sheet material

For the construction of a wall, gypsum board sheets are selected with a thickness of 12.5 mm, without fail with a wide facet on the sides. In the event that the wall is made in the bathroom or in the kitchen, a moisture-resistant GCR type is used. They differ in color: moisture resistant sheet - green, and the usual - gray.

Important! As a result - for the construction of the wall you will need: plasterboard, profile CD, CW, UD, UW, profile AU or wooden beam, dowels, mineral wool, sealing tape, metal corner.

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Tools

In order to build a wall of plasterboard, you will need the following tools:

• Level( 120 cm, 80 cm).
• Roulette.
• Timber.
• Plumb.
• Drill with reverser or screwdriver.
• Timber.
• Scissors for metal.
• Perframer.
• Torquay for drywall.
• Construction knife.

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Beginning of the installation of the frame of the plasterboard wall

So, with the definition of the necessary profiles and the preparation of the tools is complete, you can start planning and placing the future wall. The floor and the adjoining wall, on which the new wall will be attached, should be at the stage before the finishing finish, that is, the walls are plastered, and the floor is flat with a screed.

General nuances

For an example, let's consider the formation of a wall from the profile CW, UW.On the floor, you need to make a layout for the placement of the future wall. The following nuances are taken into account:

• Almost nowhere in the rooms are perfectly right angles between the walls. Especially it concerns old houses. At different ends the distance between them can differ by several centimeters. When marking a new wall, it is necessary to take this moment into account and become attached not to one wall, but to both going in parallel. The distances are averaged. This way you can prevent the visual curvature of the resulting room.
• If, in addition to installing the wall, all the walls are plastered with gypsum plasterboard, then the skeleton or, at least, the skinning of the skin is first displayed in such a way as to make the most straight angles. After that, you can start building walls.
• When planning the first line where the wall will be located, it is necessary to take into account that the guide profile will be equal to it, and not the resultant wall. To this mark will be added the thickness of the GCR, the layer of putty, as well as the finishing.

Marking of walls and ceiling

After you have decided on the first line on the floor, you can begin to transfer it to walls and ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line. If it is possible to use a laser beam, this greatly simplifies the task.

Important! All profiles to make a plasterboard wall that are fixed to the floor, existing panels or ceiling, are installed using a sealing tape between the supporting surface and it. The UW profiles are fixed first to the ceiling and floor. They are fixed at the edges every half meter with the help of dowels, as well as impact screws.

Profile fastening - work features:

• The support posts of the CW-profile are fixed along the edges of the guides.
• Also, the racks are mounted in places where a window or doorway will be formed, which are needed when building a wall of plasterboard between rooms.
• The profiles are best secured first to the lower guide. Then it goes through the upper guide and is set strictly vertically.

Important! When these profiles are located, the stock on the planking with gypsum boards over the profile is taken into account.

• The profiles are mounted face-to-face inside the opening. Fastening of racks to guides is done with the help of self-tapping screws.
• Supporting profiles along the perimeter of window and door openings should be reinforced with wooden bars inserted into the profile and fastened with screws.

Important! The bar must be selected in accordance with the width of the profile. If an AU profile is used, then it is quite possible to do without the bars.

• The next step is the installation along the entire length of the frame of the CW support profiles vertically. The first profile from the adjacent wall is set at a distance of 55 cm, all subsequent at a distance of 60 cm from each other, measuring the distance from the middle of each of the profiles.

Important! It is necessary to check the verticality of the installation of profiles.

• To designate the top of the door opening, as well as the horizontal edges of the window openings, the same UW profile is used. Cut a piece of the profile 30 cm more than the width of the opening. On the curve of the side bends of the front side of the profile marks are placed at a distance of 15 cm from each edge. Sidewalls of the profile should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, starting from the side of the edge of the profile to the mark and to the base of the profile. Then the edges of the profile are bent, and the U-shaped structure should be obtained.
• The prepared blank with the bent edges is put on the posts on the sides of the opening and rises to the required height. Fastened with self-tapping screws, which fix the edges of the profile to the posts. Also the received oblique ears formed on the main part of the billet are attached. By the same principle, the perimeter of the window openings is formed.
• At this work on the formation of the frame can be called complete. Now you can proceed to the process of fixing sheets of plasterboard. As a rule, the sizes of sheets are standard: 1200х3000, 1200х2500, 1200х1200.Often the ceilings in living areas are higher and are at least 2.75 m, so that the height of one sheet may not be enough.

Important! The first sheet, installed close to the edge, often the adjacent wall should be rid of the side chamfer. To do this, on one side, along its entire length, a strip with a width of 50 cm is cut off.

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Cutting plasterboard

Before you make a wall from gypsum board, you need to cut it. For this, an ordinary construction knife with replaceable blades is used:

1. The sheet must be placed on a flat surface.
2. With the help of a pencil, the cutting line is marked and a notch of the top layer of cardboard is cut with a knife.
3. After that, the sheet is displaced along the incision line to the edge of the support and gently breaks off.
4. Returning the sheet to its original position, it is unfolded to the edge, and then bent.
5. On the second side, the cardboard is also cut, but not through.
6. After the sheet is turned upside down and the edges of the support are displaced, it can be finally pinned down.

Important! In order to provide a gap that can be repaired in the future with a putty, a chamfer with a slope of 22.5 degrees is made on the edged edge of the sheet. To do this, you need to use a special plane for drywall. A chamfer is also made on the edge of the sheet that will be adjacent to the GCR strip located below or above the sheet.

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Fastening of gypsum board:

• To fasten sheets to a metal skeleton to make a wall from gypsum cardboard, it is necessary by means of self-cutters 3,5х35 mm.
• First, the edges of the sheet are attached, and then along the edges and the middle line. For this, there is a special marking that marks the positions of the screws every 25 cm.
• The distance between the screws can vary from 10 to 25 cm, but no more.
• Screws must be screwed in such a way that the hats slightly penetrate into the GCR or do not look above the level of the wall.

Important! Fixing of sheets is made at a distance of about 15 mm from the floor. This is necessary to ensure the integrity of the structure during operation.

• After fixing the first sheet, the remaining distance to the ceiling is measured and the corresponding piece is cut from the GCR.It also makes a facet from the sides, where it will be adjacent to the upper or lower sheet and to the ceiling.
• Subsequent sheets are mounted entirely without chamfering or staggered. That is, after the first row is installed a whole sheet of drywall under the ceiling, and the bottom is the missing part.

Thus sheath one side of the wall.

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Layout of wiring, installation of switches, outlets

Before beginning the second side sheathing, you can make the following wiring:

• To make it through the rack profiles, holes of 3.5 cm are made in the middle of the profile at the correct height.
• It is better when the edges of the hole were concave in one direction and bent so that subsequently do not damage the wires.

Important! Wires are assembled in accordance with the requirements in corrugated pipes.

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Sound insulation

In order to make a wall of plasterboard with good sound insulation, minvata is used:

• It is easier to use a roll version of this material with a width of 60 or 120 cm. The second variant is a sheet, cut in half along.
• Vatu is laid tightly without gaps between the rack profiles. There is no need to fix it in addition.
• For greater reliability, you can make horizontal bridges from a wooden beam along the width of the wall, which then will be based on a minivate of shorter length than the height of the ceilings.

Important! This method is suitable for places where there is a chance of moisture entering the wall. However, it is necessary to ensure adequate ventilation of the internal space.

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Completion of the construction of a gypsum wall

After this, you can begin to sheathe the second side of the wall. After the second side is sheathed, you can begin to fill all the end surfaces:

• There is a distance of 100 mm between the gypsum boards, formed by chamfers, which is somewhat recessed. Joints should be glued with a mounting mesh serpian and compared with the general level of the wall with the starting putty.
• With the help of the finishing putty all the mounting points of the screws or all the surfaces are aligned, especially if the wall is subsequently covered with thin wallpaper or painted.
• With a trowel and abrasive grids, the puttying layer is finally leveled.
• After that, the wall is considered ready for facing with any suitable material.

Finally, we recall that the installation of a wall of gypsum board with their own hands should be done slowly, thoroughly thought out and prepared everything you need. Successful repair!